Feeling A Tad PEC-ish This Morning
At last! For a couple of years now, Sheena had put "A Day Wine-Touring in Prince Edward County" on her to-do list. Yesterday was that day. It is a very new region, with the first commercial wineries opening up in 2000, but there are several with tasting rooms now and dozens of growers are coming into their own. Probably be a very different place in 5 years once the newbies hit their stride.
First stop: Black Prince in Picton. Nice looking spot, decent variety of wines open for tasting. Unfortunately, this was the worst stop of the tour, and Sheena became very concerned that it was not going to be a pleasant day. The wines were adequate. Nothing special, but nothing particularly offensive. Oh wait a sec... yes.. the staff was offensive. Scaredy lady who started off serving us knew nothing and looked panicked whenever a simple question like "which Rosé would you recommend?" was asked. I didn't see any tasting notes or lists and asked for one. Sheena likes to make notes when she tastes, especially on a first time visit. The snarkmaster rolled his eyes and informed me that "We don't print lists here. The selection changes too frequently. It's just a piece of paper anyways". Yes. That is precisely why I wanted it. I wanted a piece of fucking paper to make notes on. I ended up using the back of the receipt from when we stopped on the reserve near Deseronto to buy cheap indian smokes earlier in the day. Nothing purchased.
Second stop was a hoot. By Chadsey's Cairns is built on a gorgeous old property ripe with myth and intrigue and mystery. Click on the link for the history of the site. Would love to go back and picnic and explore. Wines were as unique as the location. Bought a Chenin Blanc (apparently the only vineyard in the County that grows it) that had a lovely mineral flint edge that I look forward to serving with some fresh pan fried fish one day very soon. Sheena has a bit of a weakness for Gewurtztraminer, and they had a nice one, though a little too heavy on a banana nose for my liking. The Gamay Noir was described as "sour cherry", but is more properly described as Atomic Wedgie Sour Cherry. My eyes watered, but it was fun. A fun piece on Wine Politics here...
Sandbanks was one of the treats of the day. Ended up buying almost a case. Bone dry Riesling at $16.95 had the classic limey-slate flavours, but with an unexpected depth to the finish that just hung around your tongue for a while. Baco Noir at $14.60 was a good everyday red with pasta or burgers. Some new Bacos have a ketchupy edge to them that Sheena dislikes, but not this one. Lovely Cabernet Franc for $19.95. Beautiful colour, very slight hint of the green pepper nose that can ruin a franc. A keeper. Had proper tasting notes printed and available on the counter. Good glasses too...
Carmela Estates was next. Pretty grounds with outdoor patio and one of those giant chessboards where you can walk and play. A busy spot. OK wines, but the pinot noir had that "pick me! pick me!" enthusiasm that meant 3 bottles found a home. 2 left as of this writing... ($20/each)
New kid on the block is Norman Hardie. Wow, I guess when the big shots say it's the best pinot in Canada, it's not surprising that his several hundred case production is long gone. The tasting room only opened up this summer, so it does feel a little unfinished, despite the absolutely lovely grounds. Only the Riesling was available for tasting, and at $19, was a steal. When Sheena whipped out her Visa... then her bank card to pay, she was reluctantly informed that the machines weren't actually hooked up yet. So only cash. Or cheque. Didn't have enough cash for the 3 bottles, so guess what. Yep, whipped out the chequebook. I cannot remember the last time I wrote a cheque at any retail establishment... let alone to buy booze. Pretty much on the honour system. Cool.
Sheena admits to walking into the Grange in a pissy mood. I kept thinking that Penfolds needs to come out here and kick their ass. Tried two wines - pinot gris which tasted weirdly of green tea - and the gamay noir which tasted like cherry Koolaid. Didn't finish the sample, but they still charged me for it. Had enough and left.
Last stop was the highly anticipated Closson Chase. Just over the top with prettiness of the estate. Frickin blogger pictures not working right now, but will add them later when things are back to normal. Pinots gone for the year, to be released again when they start the season next May. Famed winemaker Deborah Paskus has been splitting her time between this place and Tawse in Niagara, but apparently will be dedicated to CC full time next year. Picked up two of the unoaked chardonnays for $23/each. Worth a return visit when they get more stock open for tasting early next summer.
Seems to be an uneasy dependency in PEC on Niagara grapes right now. Most vineyards just too young to have good fruit right now, and the pioneers who are 100% county grown have a bit of a disadvantage over those who coast to VQA stardom with southern grapes. Sheena's worry is that there will be a regression in quality in a couple of years as the award-winning places who are putting PEC on the map give up their addiction to Niagara grapes and have to fend for themselves. Only time will tell. And rest assured I'll be there to report back.
6 Comments:
thank you! FB
my parents (who are from NOTL) were in PEC last week and enjoyed it, but said it's still got a way to go.
Thanks for the tips,
I think we will have to add it to our list of places to check out.
(thanks too, for the peace of mind re: flying tomorrow)
"Snarkmaster". Great stuff. Have to remember that.
I have wanted to do the PEC wine tour for ages. Thanks for the tips. Did you stay in the area? I've been looking for a nice Inn or B&B in that area.
No, Pam. We camped up near Jones Falls outside Kingston, left there noonish and spent the afternoon making our way back to Toronto thru PEC. But there were lots of B&Bs that we saw roadside, and nice inns in Picton & Wellington.
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